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Wanderlust: take the plunge
The name of the river Verzasca in Ticino Canto comes from the Italian “aqua verde”. This means “emerald-green water” and there is no better description of the fast-flowing river. The waters remind Shona of the sea in Sardinia, where she spent every summer as a child, and the rocks are also reminiscent of the island’s landscape. The river is a constant companion on this hiking route, which is also ideal for you if you are also a keen swimmer, because you can spend at least as much time in the water as on the path.
From Lavertezzo to Sonogno along the Verzasca
The hike’s starting point is in Lavertezzo. This village, surrounded by greenery, is where the famous Roman bridge Ponte dei Salti crosses the crystal-clear Verzasca. As the name indicates, some thrill-seekers have already jumped from this bridge into the naturally formed swimming pools to cool off. However, safety comes first, even here, so it is very important to explore the ground before jumping.
Although it is very tempting to spend a long time in this place, there are many other things to discover along the river. That’s why you should start the hike going up the valley, with the Verzasca to your right. After approximately one hour, you will reach a suspension bridge that will lead you to the bus stop Motta. However, you should go past it; this is just a reference point. Follow the path, close by the riverbank, protected by a shady forest, where you will walk past incredible stream beds and rock formations. If you would like to stop for a break and enjoy the scenery, you can take your pick from the many picnic tables and benches. Otherwise, the path will lead you to another bridge beside the bus stop Ganne. Cross this road bridge and go through the gate to the riverside path on the other side of the river. Now you need to climb the somewhat challenging steps that lead you through a landslide area. Once you arrive at the top, you can catch your breath.
Finally, take the path towards Brione. You will find yourself about halfway there after 2 hours. You can have a meal in Ristorante Ai Piée, or alternatively, a little further on, you will find fire pits for barbecues in front of a log cabin. The valley is broader at this part of the route and the riverbanks have little sandy beaches. Shona takes advantage of the opportunity to unpack her beach towel and lie in the sun in her swimsuit with a book. If you want to cool off again, go ahead and jump into the pellucid water. Could a hike be any lovelier?
As soon as you have finished your swim and are ready for the second half of the hike, walk on in the direction of Sonogno. Before you reach the relevant signposts, you will go past a suspension bridge near Alnasca and the Froda log cabin. When you arrive at the signpost for Sonogno, go over the Gerra Verzasca suspension bridge towards post bus stop Al Ponte, heading downwards, but once again to a bridge. Having crossed the bridge, you arrive at the typical stone holiday houses of Lorentino.
Here the landscape alternates between sunny meadows and shady forests. At the next fork, you need to be careful, as it diverges from the signs for hiking trail 74. At point 858, you should cross the Verzasca again over the old road bridge. The big stone steps at the end of the bridge will first lead you to a dry stream bed, then back along the river. The path will take you between trees and bog meadows back to Sonogno. Once you have arrived in the characteristic village centre, you can have a meal in one of the grottoes. Reserving in advance is recommended; then, when the traditional dish is placed on the table in front of you, all you need to say is: buon appetito!
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Additional information
Duration
In total, this hike will take somewhat more than 4 hours (without breaks). However, as most people find the emerald-green waters impossible to resist, it is worth allowing more time, so you can have fun swimming and cooling off to your heart’s content.
Degree of difficulty
Easy. This hike is suitable for families with children and older people. As the route will take you through different villages, there is always the option of truncating the hike and catching the post bus back.
Waypoints:
- Lavertezzo (536 m above sea level)
- Motta (655 m above sea level)
- Ganne (669 m above sea level)
- Brione (756 m above sea level)
- Alnasca (757 m above sea level)
- Gerra Verzasca (808 m above sea level)
- Frasco (885 m above sea level)
- Sonogno (918 m above sea level)
Highlights:
- The Ponte dei Salti Roman bridge
- The breathtaking river landscape with sandy beaches
- Bathing in the Verzasca’s emerald-green fast-flowing waters
- River diving
- Many fire pits for picnicking
- Bridges, secluded forests and cow pastures
- Idyllic Ticino mountain villages
Shona’s tip: river diving
It may not be the Maldives, but river diving in the Verzasca valley above Lake Maggiore will give you an experience you won’t forget. Over many years, the force of the water has polished the stones in the mountain river until they are smooth. The emerald-green water will also give you a beautiful light show, especially around midday. There are three famous diving spots along the Verzasca: Pozzo dei Salti, Pozzo delle Posse and Pozzo delle Misura. Before you set off on your diving adventure, find out about the possible dangers lurking in the water. You can find a useful guide with tips here. If you need advice, or would like to join a guided dive, you could contact Dedalus Divers, for example, in Gordola.
